Onyx black, like staring into the darkest of seas. The nose is quiet, dark blue fruit, a hint of woodsmoke, gunpowder even, and then black pepper. In the mouth, the persuasive tannins take control, but they are not drying, and they are not especially astringent. Merely all-embracing – and the embrace is a rigorous one. To say that the wine has been made traditionally is something of an understatement: concrete vats, no destemming, natural yeasts and then ageing in mature foudres. ‘Syrah needs to breathe,’ said Auguste Clape, and now, in bottle, it needs time to think.