This 2010 Pavie – predating the château’s reclassification in 2012 – has a ripe, boiled sweet nose, with baked fruit, soft spices, and a musky undertone. It is fresher on the palate; a huge and concentrated wine but with the terroir breaking through to bring a lifted, spicy, stony savouriness. The tannic bite frames the boisterous juice and reins it in. Brawny, grainy, but dressed in a Savile Row suit – Daniel Craig’s James Bond. A long finish.