Another first growth, this time further south in Margaux, seems to open the doors to its inimitable neo-Palladian château with this 2010, inviting you to snuggle up by its fireside. A toasty, smoky wine on the nose: peaty, pretty, powerful. In the mouth, it has sublime poise. Ethereal and delectable with sweet, lacy fruit. So flavoursome you feel you’re eating, but so feather-light it melts into air. And then you realise it’s vigorous, massive, majestic, but so deft you feel right at home at its hearth.