From top notch Saint-Emilion terroir, Larcis Ducasse is something of a hidden gem, and back in fine fettle after a slightly disappointing 2009. The 2010 brings a bass note, with deep, rich aromas and a certain gravitas. There’s also an animal – almost gamey – character, which blends into wet undergrowth and leaves a kind of feral scent underlying the sweet, floral perfume. A satisfyingly complex bouquet. It has a beautifully pitched weight and texture in the mouth: just the right balance of chewy and melting, harnessing the concentration of the vintage without being overpowered by it.