An initial shyness on the nose relaxes into an edge of smoke, a whiff of peony and gentle cherry and redcurrant. The first thing to notice on the svelte but profound body is 2014’s killer acid which brightens the entire palate like a laser light to reveal pervasive, juicy freshness. Tasted two years ago, this already showed its vibrant fruit, but this has such nerve, such purity that it will evolve effortlessly.