My handwritten notes begin, “My God, what a nose”. Sun-warmed hay, briar and blackberry and earthy mint. And this thought: if the Pavillon is as good as this, what is the grand vin going to be like? It’s rounded with lovely bright urgent tannins, and such fine fruit, blackcurrant and black cherry along with scents of cigar-box. Acidity still exhilarating. Delicious.