Norwegian-born Jan Pettersen, owner of Fernando de Castilla, isn’t a great believer in Jerez’s designated age system. If he was, this silky-textured Palo Cortado would be labelled as a VORS. It certainly shares the complexity of many of those wines, as revealed by a layered palate of orange zest, leather, smoke and nuts. Incredibly elegant, with just a hint of grip on the long finish.