The Pagos de Viña Real was created to respond to the trend around the millennium, firstly in the smart restaurants of Madrid, and then elsewhere, to make big-boned modern wines from the fruit of a single vineyard. Whilst not naming the specific (Laguardia) vineyard and not joining the Vinos de Pagos movement, CVNE tip their hat to both, but with a twist. This is 100% Tempranillo, matured in French oak for 18 months. Its colour and tannic structure are the antithesis of old-style Gran Reserva; deep and brooding, here we have mint, myrtle and even hints of toffee apple. Stentorian and imposing, yet the essential character of old vine Tempranillo shines through and for all the power and glory there is also an intricate structural integrity and an Alavesa charm which is hard to resist.