The 2011 vintage still gives winemakers nightmares about galloping rot. It’s the weakest wine in this line-up, but the bar is very high. There is sweet violet rot on the nose, some tobacco leaf and graphite. The palate is missing acidity. It lacks power in mid-palate. True to the vintage but not a great Hillside. Brown is more positive than me, preferring its leanness to the ‘overt muscle-fat of the middle vintages in this decade’. One to ponder.