Bottled to commemorate Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana’s 225th anniversary, this limited-edition manzanilla comes from grapes grown in the El Cuadrado vineyard. The wine was aged for a remarkable 15 years in a cathedral close to the Atlantic Ocean, whose cool, humid breezes prolonged the life of the flor. Long ageing has created a wine with layers of vibrant flavour – smoke, beeswax and lemon zest dance across the palate – and great persistence