Bottled in 2017, this 10-year-old follows the ex-bourbon-then-Madeira template, although here it’s three years in the former and seven in the latter. The ex-bourbon takes the lead on the nose – vanilla pod, hot sawdust, fresh char – then comes a slight vegetal element and pumpkin flesh. There are touches of sloe, but this is Foursquare in a more serious guise. This linearity continues on the palate: fine tannins, pleasingly bitter peels, old books given depth by crème de mûre elements, and a touch of blue fruits. Layered and elegant.