This striking Graves château was acquired in 1990 by former Olympic skiiers, Daniel and Florence Cathiard. The couple have seriously energised the brand and raised the quality of the wine. The bouquet of the 2010 Smith-Haut-Lafitte is open-knit and alluring, with nostril-filling aromas of home-made fruit pie (light on the sugar). It’s a beautiful wine, with a natural style and grace. Like watching a French skiier doing parallel turns down a black run and knowing you’ll never be able to emulate the effortlessness (I speak for myself). Savoury, balanced, and perfectly pitched in terms of weight, texture, and ripeness, it’s a masterclass in a restrained 2010.