There is wood underpinning the nose, then on the palate concentration and dryness washed with juice, intensity of roasted nut and burnt muscovado; this is a physical presence in the mouth, a sense of something ancient, elemental, alive. Despite its great age, this wine is merely at a stage of development. In 2119 there will be critics in silver jumpsuits (with their water-powered hovermobiles tethered to the railings of 67 Pall Mall) tasting a wine that will look very much like this, only 100 years older.