Saint-Estèphe’s most recognisable château, with its oriental architecture of pagoda-like turrets and its elephant motifs, was acquired by hospitality magnate Michel Reybier in 2000. At first sniff this is restrained and watchful, standing in the corner taking everything in and waiting for the right moment to make its mark. Dark and handsome, it slowly gives up aromas of bilberry, blackcurrant leaf, and juniper berry. In the mouth it possesses that same dark, enigmatic character. Spicy and savoury, chocolatey and sumptuous, but not big or brash, this is back to the elegant style Cos after the famously rich and ripe 2009, and much the better for it.