Angélus, under the auspices of the young and determined Stéphanie De Boüard-Rivoal, is a wine gaining in precision each year, and I can’t help thinking that the 2010 would be even better if made with the same perfectionist tweaks applied at the château today. Nonetheless, the bouquet belly dances hypnotically, with supreme confidence in its dark-fruited appeal. As you go deeper, more saccharine, sweet fruit notes come through – black plum, boysenberry and vanilla. It is warm but not hot to the smell. Again in the mouth, this is just on the right side of sweet and extracted. The wine invites you to luxuriate in its gorgeous, enveloping richness, to admire its elegant and expensive frame.