The last vintage of Château Lafite to be released before this wine – China’s darling – led the fine wine market crash in the summer of 2011. The bouquet is so lifted and serene it’s almost otherworldly. And yet it is so firmly in this world, in nature. It’s like the beginning of spring, or a single rosebud representing all of Mother Nature in its modest magnificence. On the palate this is lithe and luscious, with building, soaring, driving fruit energy. And yet it has that classic Lafite restraint. Never shouting, never flirting, always itself. Long finish.